where there once sat a dilapidated blue-paint-peeling car shop, a remodel revelation has fashioned a space for a rather dillicious occasion. serving soul food with serious flair, a new player on the salt lake stage, TRADITION, is ideal for a multiplicity of occasions. although i wont say their brunch makes the dillicious cut- if its dinner you’re hankering for: go tonight.
warm greetings from a stellar painting of cotswold the cow, (i don't actually know if he has a name but i love a promising alliteration) welcome and usher you into the best restaurant renovation the city has seen in ages. an abandoned car shop sat on this corner of prime park-side real estate for all too long. remembering a past life, led much differently than this one, impressive glass doors have replaced rusting garage doors. light spills into a once repair bay, drowning guests and their eats alike throughout the new space. what a splendid notion to imagine that same light once distinguishing tools from parts, now defines dinner from drinks and tables from plates. in the center of the space a communal tables reaches toward a beautiful state of the art kitchen appropriately humming with mechanic efficiency. beautiful art and large mirrors adorn the space, keeping cotswold the cow in colorful company, and lend a bright enjoyable atmosphere dense with things to look at.
could excite anybody in the mood to nosh. we enjoyed a plethora of yum-tastic dishes; fried green tomatoes perfectly breaded were dressed with an intriguing tho perhaps overwhelming pick of sauces. a watercress salad served with chili vinegar, almonds, and finished with what i would call a goat cheese fritter ignited an eruption of yum on your tongue. both dishes full of flavor and new ideas gained points for inventiveness, but fell short in curation. i left pondering which culinary paths the kitchen was trying to lead me along. fried cauliflower served over grits with a citrus jalepeno gastrique was favored among our party. texturally appealing and thoughtful portions showcased the produce and highlighted the dillicious inventive gastrique. i wanted to order a second.
a simple but smart wine list from the mind of natalie hamilton. from the cocktail menu, delivered in a dainty cup from; the “afternoon delight” spoke to the energy of the remodel with bright, fresh, flavors and an airy egg white viscosity. needless to say, a delight indeed. as our main course arrived i took a “paid vacation,” another aptly named, equally refreshing, yet spicy and sweet drink harmonized with the fish and chips we ate next. true to form this traditional dish was served with an exceptional new flair. arctic char tempura fried, served over matchstick fries surprised me at first. i wondered, can this strange mutation of such a classic dish be credible? i leaned, yes. the fish was cooked to perfection; a light and fluffy, tho crunchy breading guarded the meat from dryness while also creating an opportunity for new textural and visual experiences. break thru the breading and find something pink? fork your way to the plate and savor a new version of crunchy in the fries. different and well directed i thought this dish a complete success. a caution: do not order too much, you may not make it to the pie, and that would be a shame. crust so perfect and filling so juicy any choice would be game to give grandma’s holiday treat tradition a run for the money.
the workshop vibe so many may have done away with when remodeling a space like this is a shining beacon in the story of the north east corner of ninth and fifth. a showcase of what traditions are worth and what they can be. a dinner spot for more than just your flavor needs, its a place you’ll want to return to with friends and family again and again. which as i understand, we call a TRADITION.